![]() Separate and strip the fan cord’s conductors Strip all three of the power cord conductorsĬut the fan connector off the power cord that came with the fan with a little more than enough wire to reach the switch This stain relief will protect your connections should the cord get pulled or yanked. Tie a knot in the power cord to prevent it from being pulled out the power cord hole and grommet. ![]() ![]() Strip the outer insulation off of a sufficient length of the power cord to expose the insulated conductor wires Pass the cord through the wire grommet from the outside of the enclosure and pull through a good length of cord 25" wire grommet into the power wire hole on the enclosureĬut the C13 (computer plug) off of the IEC power cord Mount the fan and the chrome grill on the back lid leaving the nylon lock nut intend for the ground connection loose Depending on how your enclosure fits together, at this point you might want to make some notes on the back of the lids and inside of the enclosure denoting top, bottom, front lid, back lid, etc.ĭetermine which fan mounting bolt is going to hold the ground wire and remove the paint from the fan in that area ![]() If everything fits and works up to this point, disassemble everything and get ready for paint. Rather than struggle with the switch, I ran the power cord that came with the fan out the switch hole so I could power the thing up. I made sure the switch fit when I filed the hole. If your switch hole is just big enough, it can be difficult to pop the switch in and out. Mount the filter sandwich and the fan in the enclosure with the lid screws included with the enclosure. Secure the Silverstone grill with 4, #8-32 wing nuts Slide the filter down the 1.5" #8-32 screws and place the second Silverstone grill on top Mount a Silverstone grill on the other enclosure lid using the 1.5" #8-32 screws and nuts Use one of the Silverstone grills as a template to cut a square of filter material and poke the mounting holes Bring it back again! Thanks Ron.Mount the fan and chrome grill on the back lid with the 2” #8-32 screws and nylon lock nuts. I appreciate every ones input! So as I am learning about this, is 200 cfm enough to evacuate my 6圆 ft area I am working in, or is there another type of fan I could use to do it, or would I have to get into a shop vac. I was looking for something I could just leave up, and would be quieter than a shop vac running. Thought about a shop vac too, and might have to go that way. GG, what you have going on there is exactly what I am looking for, for the amount of times I will be doing this. RNeumann, thanks, I do have opposing windows in my shop along with the 2 overhead doors, so I can crack the back window for the makeup air. So come on from there! The reason I was looking at a bath fan was that I could mount it on the ceiling and leave it there,hard duct it outside, have to fab a new lid on the suction side as I know a tinner, with probably a 4" nipple to hook a flexible hose to get close to my work. Just working in a 6圆 ft area of it and try to evacuate the fumes from that area with a hose hanging down close to the work. I do not plan to do heavy enough work to flood the whole shop with fumes as I know what I am trying to do will not work. ![]() flingwing 1969, thanks, I should have stated my shop is 24x32 insulated, drywalled and has heat. ![]()
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